Personally i don't like the reliance on these dry contact points so I have run in a small dedicated cable from the horn switch through to an earth in the headlamp assembly.
- Result is a working horn and one less reason for an MoT failure.
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Cheeme |
I grabbed a few hours this afternoon to troubleshoot the horn which hasn't been working. As far as I can figure out the switch picks up a ground via the switch gear case which in turn is grounded via the handle bars. My issue is that the switch gear case is freshly powder coated which insulates both the switch from the case and the case from the bars and the handle bars are insulated from the frame due to powder coated clamps.
Personally i don't like the reliance on these dry contact points so I have run in a small dedicated cable from the horn switch through to an earth in the headlamp assembly. - Result is a working horn and one less reason for an MoT failure. The front brake has been nagging me for a while as it wasn't returning the lever fully. I took most of the front cylinder apart before it dawned on me that it was actually ok and the issue was the lever being too snug in the clamp. This was due to the powder coating paint being thicker than the original spray coat. I thinned out the powder coated paint and tada..it now returns fully. As Id disconnected everything i had to bleed the brakes yet again..I HATE bleeding brakes!!
The next nag is that the horn doesn't work. That's to say the switch that earths the horn causing it to BEEP isn't working - the horn its self is ok. I tested this across a spare 12v battery. I dismantled the left hand switchgear and removed screws etc to release the offending switch which is pretty corroded. As I am more likely to find some hens teeth than a replacement part I am going to have to look at cleaning it up without breaking it ...Fun i'll save for another day! After whats been a bit of an up and down day on the bike she is now running at a good idle rev with the new pump, regulator and relief valve. Todays challenging issue was that the throttle body butterflies were ever so slightly open when in the resting position. This as it turned out was enough to cause some high rev issues which seem par for the course with this baby.
I'll post some pic's and video tomorrow but couldn't stop myself from posting a quick update tonight. - its beer o'clock now!! Found this nice little video showing the transistor that was faulty (2SD412) on the ECU and how its used. The issue looks to be the fuel relief valve between the tank and pressure regulator. Looking at the fuel circuit i released that the regulator reduces the fuel pressure by returning some fuel to the tank. If this path was blocked then the fuel pump could over drive the injectors.
I have tried to release the valve but can see that there is a rubber part that has perished inside so need a replacement part. Kawasaki part:16130-1002 |
AuthorShaun Chivers. Archives
August 2016
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